I have long known that Runnymede has a sister, another National Trust property on the opposite bank of the Thames. I had heard things about it; an ancient yew tree, a ruined priory. I hadn't bothered walking over there though. After all you can see parts of the ruins from my bank and ancient yews are far from news to me. That was a spectacular misjudgement. I have now been and nothing could have prepared me for how different the place feels. They are both managed by the same people but Ankerwycke, as it is called, feels infinitely wilder, rawer and more mysterious. The path leads one over causeways between marshy areas and ruined water management systems associated with the priory, through a woodland far more chaotic than my own. Suddenly one reaches the Thames but it takes a moment to recognise it - looking at the Pleasure Grounds the manicured quality is in stark contrast to the Ankerwycke bank. The path then dives back through glades of yews and between pockets of dark water to the ruins and then finally the yew.
It is plain that the Ankerwycke Yew is an important pagan site. Yews are tightly woven into English spiritual life and folklore and have been since the earliest written accounts of this country. 2000 years old and broader than it is tall, this one has seen everything. Every branch, nook and cranny within reach of the ground is bedecked with ribbons, pictures of people, pieces of paper with either names or messages on, spring flowers, wreaths, animal symbols, sticks from other trees with buds on and garlands. Some have rotted and dried until they're barely there, others are fresh. Who knows what people think they were making offerings to, but making offerings they were. In spite of being festooned with symbols of life and renewal, this place of hope and remembrance is dark and difficult. I have rarely been so glad to feel the sun as I was when I walked away. This tree is going on my to do list of paintings.
Anyway, the pictures:
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